Wednesday, September 1, 2010

The History Of Chicago's Pump Room Restaurant

By Ross Everett

Long a hangout of A-list celebrities, the Pump Room Restaurant in Chicago is still 'hopping' in the 21st century. The restaurant, memorialized in Frank Sinatra's classic "Chicago", was one of the first high level restaurants to open in Chicago after the Prohibition era. The eatery has seen countless celebrities including Marilyn Monroe, Clark Gable, Ronald Reagan, John Barrymore and countless others. For a while, it's luster faded somewhat as the dining scene in Chicago led by Charlie Trotter passed it by.

The Pump Room opened in'38 under the ownership and management of Ernie Blyfield. Blyfield's inspiration for the name and ambiance of his restaurant was an 18th Century London pub frequented by celebrities and nobility, including Queen Anne. The 'Pump Room' moniker came from the hot drinks 'pumped' into the cocktails of its customers.

The Chicago Pump Room was a smashing success from the time it opened. It's most desired table reserved for 'A list' celebrities was Booth #1, which for a time may have been the most sought after table at any dining establishment in the country. Booth #1 at various times hosted Frank Sinatra and his associates, Bogart and Bacall, Judy Garland and daughter Liza Minnelli, John Barrymore and countless others.

Blyfield died in'50, but the Pump Room continued to be the preferred Chicago destination for the biggest names in show biz. A new era of celebrities held court there including opera singer Beverly Sills, Paul Newman, Robert Redford, film producer Robert Evans, Eddie Murphy and others. A funny story involving the Pump Room began when the former drummer for a British progressive rock band was refused entry due to his lack of a jacket. The drummer would use this as inspiration for his next album--'No Jacket Required' which has sold over-- million copies worldwide and established Phil Collins as a solo superstar. After the album's release, the Pump Room sent Collins an apology--and an appropriate jacket for him to wear on his next trip to town.

The Pump Room experienced a revitalization in the late'90's when it was purchased by a large restaurant management group. They spent a lot of money to renovate the facility, overhaul the menu and hire a top flight staff. While the Pump Room's golden era trade mark flaming food served on a sword was a tragedy of city fire codes, the menu is now on par with any in the city serving a sophisticated interpretation of classic American cuisine. In addition to the revamped cuisine, the Pump Room upgraded its wine offering and expanded the bar area.

Current Executive Chef Nick Sutton has continued the restaurant's tradition of excellence. The big draw of the Pump Room, however, remains the amazing sense of history that the dining room offers. The realization that a who's who of civilized American culture from Bogart and Clark Gable to Sinatra and Jackie Gleason broke bread in the room is a pretty amazing vibe. The good news is that the Pump Room again offers the quality of food and service worthy of such icons, and is a victory for culinary excellence amid the national infestation of mediocre chain restaurants.

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